The trip started with Alex Hnarakis*.
The morning AOM (All Officer’s Meeting) at VF-124 was over about 10am on Monday, the 22nd of December, 1980. It was the last scheduled evolution before the Christmas holiday break. Alex and I were both students at NAS Miramar in San Diego, learning to fly the F-14 Tomcat.
I had bet myself that it would be possible to hitch-hike across the country and arrive at my parent’s quarters by Christmas. At that time my father was a Rear Admiral, the Inspector General of the Navy, and had quarters assigned on the Naval Research Lab in Anacostia in Washington DC. Of course, he was not informed of my travel plans. I’m reckless, not stupid.
Alex and I headed out the gate, down 163 to Interstate 8 and east for a few miles, where I’m sure he wished me luck even if questioning my sanity. But there was no going back. Out went the thumb.
Standing on the side of the freeway in a corduroy jacket and back pack was not a common sight—but neither was it unheard of. I had faith. Within the hour someone stopped and got me on my way. Up into the hills east of San Diego, to El Cajon where the air turns dry and the vegetation sparse. Another ride, another all too few miles. Thirty miles down…a shitload to go. Hop into the next car through the hills and near to El Centro.
After another hour or so exercising my thumb, a gentleman in pickup/camper stops and offers a ride. Hop in, and away. As a rule, I’m not a gabber, and only engage in conversation with the driver to the extent he would care to converse. We drive in silence for quite a while. Finally, he begins to wonder the who/ what/ where/ and why of it all. He already knows the how…thumbin’ it!
So…what’s your name?
Glenn
30 minutes pass.
So…what do you do, Glenn?
I’m in the Navy.
Some time passes.
So…heading home for the holidays?
Yes, going to my parents’ home.
(You get the idea…it’s not a quick paced conversation.)
So…where do they live? How far are you going?
They live on the east coast, in DC.
That’s quite a trip. Think you’ll make it by Christmas? Seems to be a long shot.
Well, I’m going to try. Every ride helps.
So…what do you do in the Navy?
I’m based with a fighter squadron at Miramar.
So…what do you do in the squadron? A maintenance guy? Hydraulics? Electronics?
No, I’m a pilot learning to fly the F-14.
A long time passes…
So, aren’t all pilots officers?
Yes.
A longer time passes…
So what the hell is an officer doing hiking across the country?
Seemed like it would be a fun thing to do!
Well, by this point we were approaching Phoenix. I’m not sure how far further my driver had planned on going, but it was evident that he’d had enough of either a) an inveterate liar, or b) a wacked out individual who should not be flying the premier jet in the Naval inventory. Either way, he let me out at the next exit. It’s dark at this point…perhaps 9ish at night.
Now, earlier while stopping for gas, I noticed a family (of sorts) in a huge old black Lincoln Land Yacht, also filling their tank. I hadn’t been standing long alongside the on-ramp when none other than this same land yacht pulls over. I squeeze into the back…and for the next 26 hours or so am in for an “experience”.
My driver…never did get his name…is a picture of the quintessential lanky “hick” from the hollow in Appalachia, broken rim cowboy hat included. In fact, I do gather from his spare pronouncements that he and his family are heading back to the hills of north Mississippi. He hoped I could contribute some gas money for the trip. (Gladly). Of course, I’d be compensated upon arrival. (Doubtful). His bride sat in the right seat with a little one. At this expanse of time, all I recall her ever saying is asking her husband how far he was going to take “his friend”, meaning me.
With me in the back was a lot of luggage, and a young lad of about 10 or 12. (More on him later.) Oh, and a dog of some unknown breed, with whom I shared my seat. He was friendly.
We made our way around Phoenix, and onto a state road heading north towards I-40. A most fortuitous turn of event for me, as staying on I-10 all the way to Jacksonville Florida would have made the trip substantially longer. Somewhere along the way, in some little town my driver…let’s call him “Jim”…needed to rest. We stopped outside an all night laundromat and took our rest spots among the broken chairs in the shop. Trying to sleep in the cool harsh glare of flickering fluorescents is never easy, but I had experience. As a Naval Academy grad I was used to sleeping in our rooms with similar lighting…though our racks were slightly more comfortable. A couple hours with eyes closed seemed to do the trick for our intrepid driver. I, on the other hand, had better luck napping in the back seat with the mutt. On we traveled.
On a mission, to get to Mississippi. Not lack of gas or food or a place to rest would hinder our mission. At some point in the late morning, food did become an issue. So…Jim pulled over in some little town and strode up to the local fire station. Unable to hear the conversation…we all stayed in the car…some time later one of the firemen came to the car with a collection of ham sandwiches for all of us. Charity, witnessed in the field, and not just on a tax return.
On we go…until the car too needs to be fed. Off the highway we go into some other little town. As chance would have it, we come upon a church picnic. Jim pulls over, takes off his hat and puts on his most pronounced limp and ambles up to the pastor. He explains our plight to the good reverend, who listens intently. It is nearing Christmas, and charity is in the air. The pastor takes the church credit card, walks across the street to the local gas station, and asks the attendant to fill up the car on the church. (For young readers who don’t live in New Jersey, it used to be the case there was always someone to fill the gas, check the oil, and clean the windshield when one pulled into the station. Thus the appellation, service station.)
Now, recall the kid in the back seat with me…the 12 or so year old boy. He’s sporting a denim jacket, colorfully embroidered on the back with a rather intricate portrayal…of a lynching. The attendant was a kid, 18 or so, with rather long hair. While he was pumping the (free) gas for us, from the back seat came a string of disparaging comments. And by “disparaging”, I mean something along the lines of “Look at that fucking queer hippie!”, etc. Quite the juxtaposition. And no, there was no push back from the parents.
Fueled and fed off we go, back on Interstate 40. No more stops for the rest of the afternoon, but as night falls both the Lincoln and its inhabitants are getting hungry again. So, another stop in another little town in Oklahoma. This time the local police station is the target. However, these public servants aren’t in the feeding business. They do though find a local hotel that will accommodate hard up travelers…no doubt on the city’s dime. So, to the motel we go.
Though it’s been a productive ride, I decide to keep moving on. With a “Merry Christmas and good luck” bid my adieu to the happy Klan family. Back down the road to the freeway, and up the on ramp I trudge. Out goes the thumb. It’s probably between 10 and 11 at night, I’m outside of Oklahoma City, about halfway on my journey—both time and distance-wise. No doubt I am having some doubts about my travel choices, but at present I don’t recall any!
Call it an hour, but from the far lane a pickup truck cuts over stops on the freeway. I run up and hop in. My lone driver, as always, asks “how far?”. I tell him, and with a chuckle informs he he’s heading to North Carolina. There is a god. He’s not looking for gas money, but he could use a driver. Of course, I’m happy to oblige. Off we go into the night. There was not much to say about this leg…either he was driving and I napping, or vice versa. But counting the miles as they went by reinforced my belief that I just might make it home by Christmas morning.
Just in case you’ve never made the drive…Tennessee is a really long state. Not Texas wide, but still.
I’m with this gentleman for an entire day. He lets me out somewhere outside of Durham, North Carolina the following night…Christmas Eve. The memory is a bit hazy, but it took me a ride or two to get through the city and on my way north. At this point I don’t recall if I ended up on I-85 out of Durham, or I-95 out of Raleigh…but in either event, a guy picked me up on his was to…Philadelphia! I’m gonna make it…Halleluiah!
Through the night we drive. I try to convince him that cutting a piece off the DC beltway by taking I-295 north will save his time and money. He’s unsure, but accommodates me nonetheless.
Christmas morning…he discharges me outside the main gate of the Naval Research Lab in Anacostia in DC. I walk up to the gate and display my I.D. I’m not sure the gate guard had ever had anyone walk through before. It’s another mile walk or so the Quarters “A” where my folks resided. It’s just after 6am when I knock on the door, and wake up my Rear Admiral father. Though it’s Christmas morning, getting up early for the “kids” hadn’t been done in quite a number of years. I quickly explain my travel experience, and proceed to fall asleep on the floor. They wake me for dinner.
I did it. Hitch-hiked across the country, San Diego to Washington DC, in 65 hours. Though no mention of it in the Guinness Book of Records, I do drink Guinness, so there is some connection.
I had an airline ticket already procured for the return.
Recall, reckless, not stupid.
Oh, one last thing.
US Violent Crime Rate–
1980: 597 incidents/ 100,000 inhabitants
1990: 730 incidents/ 100,000 inhabitants
2020: 400 incidents/ 100,000 inhabitants
The rate is less than 2/3tds today than it was in the 80’s, nationwide. Why are we so much more afraid of each other? Why no hitch-hikers today?
*Remember Alex, Alex Hnarkis, who sent me on my way at the start. He went on to have a great career, and was a partial inspiration for the movie Top Gun as he was the subject of a magazine article that led to the movie. Though a year behind me at the Naval Academy—and a fellow physics major—we met in Pensacola Florida where he went through basic jet training. My first posting after I received my wings was to be an instructor, in Pensacola. Thus, though a year apart, we ended up in Miramar near the same time.